Chinatown is one of Washington’s most dynamic and
culturally rich neighborhoods. In recent years, Chinatown has become a platform
for trends in food, dining, music, and entertainment. Transformational
philanthropist-turned-restaurateur Yeni Wong is considered to be a major
catalyst for this recent renaissance.
Virtually every American community has Chinese restaurants—and the story of how this came to be is fascinating and highly revealing about the often-unintended impact of US immigration rules. This ethnic food industry started to grow rapidly in the early twentieth century, at a time when anti-Chinese sentiments were pervasive. How did these restaurants open in large numbers when the American public despised Chinese immigrants and suspected them of eating the flesh of cats, dogs, and rats?
To unravel this conundrum, Yeni did archival research and
analyzed historical statistics to explain Chinese business decisions in the
United States. Her findings highlight the formative—and, at times,
ironic—effects of US immigration law and underscore the dynamic interaction
between exclusionary legal policies and the adaptive strategies of would-be
immigrants.
The vast majority of Chinese food originally came to the
United States from a small cluster of areas in southern China,
whose economic fortunes became tied to opportunities in North America after the
1849 gold rush
in California. Young men went to the United States to work, sent money back to
relatives in China, and periodically made temporary trips home. But this cycle
of work and visits became much harder to execute after the United States passed
the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882. This draconian law barred the entry of
Chinese laborers, yet it also ended up stimulating the
formation of Chinese businesses through a system of visa preferences.
Owners of particular businesses could obtain “merchant
status,” which enabled them to enter the United States and sponsor relatives.
After a 1915 court case granted these special immigration privileges to Chinese
restaurant owners, entrepreneurial people in the United States and China opened
restaurants as a way to bypass restrictions in US immigration laws. Stream of newcomers from China were diverted into the restaurant industry.
The number of Chinese restaurants in the United States
exploded during the early twentieth century. Between 1910 and 1920, the number
of Chinese restaurants in New York City nearly quadrupled and then more than
doubled again over the next ten years. By 1920, New York restaurants generated
$77.9 million in annual sales, rising to $154.2 million in 1930. Chinese
laundries had once been the largest employers of Chinese workers, but by 1930,
restaurants became more likely employers of Chinese workers—and retained that
distinction thereafter.
Such explosive growth in restaurants and restaurant
employment happened even though it was far from easy for the Chinese to gain
merchant status. US requirements for restaurant merchant status were rigid and
arbitrary. The Immigration Bureau would assign this status only to the major
investor in a “high-grade” restaurant, and these individuals also had to have managed their restaurants full time
for at least one calendar year, refraining, during that time, from any menial
work as cashiers, waiters, or the like. Immigration agents assumed that Chinese
applicants were prone to lie, so it was bureau policy to interview two white
character witnesses to establish credibility for their claims. With few
exceptions, the Immigration Bureau was willing to recognize only one merchant
per restaurant.
When Yeni started her own business in Chinatown, she knew exactly how she wanted to run
it and recalls many stumbling blocks along the way. She persevered, knowing how
to take opportunities as they came. She was observant, daring, and willing to
step out of her comfort zone: “I noticed that a restaurateur needs to go
out and see what your competitors are doing. Eat at other restaurants and take
notes. Notice what others are doing right and try to emulate that in your
restaurant. Also take notice of things they’re doing wrong and try not to
repeat it. I decided to shift my attention to meet that demand,” she explained.
After much success in the world of real estate, Yeni
followed her passion for food and opened Golden Palace in Chinatown in 1989.
Taking inspiration from her childhood in Taiwan, Yeni focused on different
types of Chinese cooking. Although the Golden Palace closed in 2005, Yeni
realized she was onto something with dishes that originated from various parts
of China. In 2013, she took her love of soul food uptown and opened the Happy
Luck, where her chefs serve “Chinese revival” cuisine.
In the same year, Yeni renovated and revived one of the
most legendary and historical restaurants, Chinatown Garden. Chinatown Garden
is a formal supper club featuring live music and a sophisticated prix fixe
menu.
Yeni has spent her life cultivating her craft, learning
the restaurant business the old-fashioned way—from the bottom up. She worked
her way up through some of the best restaurants in the country, and now, as
owner and concept creator, she has shown the ability to continually produce
restaurants that are critical, as well as financial, successes.
In this interview, Yeni Wong discussed how a restaurateur to become an outstanding philanthropist. The interview was carried out on April 94, 2016, at her office in Washington, DC. The following is a transcript of the interview, which has been edited for content, length, and clarity.
What’s your story?
My story is of a dreamer—a girl who grew up in Taiwan, one who was seeking to discover the world and lead a quality life, helping make a difference to the lives of others. Well, in a nutshell, I’m an entrepreneur. I started the business in 1989 after I quit my full-time jobs and started my own restaurant. I’ve been really fortunate to be able to build the business from the ground up. My passion to be an entrepreneur led me to create a venture of my own and grow my businesses. Through my networks in Chinatown, I also see a way to encourage others (especially women) to become entrepreneurs. The entrepreneurial talent and the educational attainment of Chinese Americans have been boons to the US economy. Chinese Americans have become the immigrant group that most embodies the American promise of success driven by will and resolve.
I would like to make a profound and long-term contribution
to Chinatown revitalization. However, the most important accomplishment for me
is to have a positive effect on others, inspiring them to reach for their
dreams.
What’s the best piece of advice you ever received?
It was at Harvard Business School, where our professor always started the class with this quotation from Peter Drucker: “Whenever you see a successful business, someone once made a courageous decision.” I have heeded this advice every single day, and I take risks all the time. By risks, I don’t mean major gambles, which may jeopardize, but minor ones, like reaching out to customers as a shot in the dark or always being on the lookout for connecting opportunities. I will not be lulled into a false sense of service and would like to lead a life of adventure and excitement, not cocooned in my comfort zone.
Who inspires you?
I derive inspiration from every woman I meet. This is
particularly so of women who are mothers and who have to maintain a fine
balance between work and family, yet aim for self-actualization. I am
inspired by people who have found success after going through great difficulty
and after putting in much effort, and the stories of their struggles always
motivate me to aim higher and achieve more. I have drawn a great deal of
inspiration from Oprah Winfrey at times when I felt completely defeated by
life. Of late, Ajay Rochester, Alexis Jones, and Amy Applebaum, all
motivational speakers, have been a source of inspiration.
What have you just learned recently that blew you away?
Recently I read a quote from Carl Jung that said, “No tree can grow to the heavens unless its roots reach down in hell.” This is particularly true of any entrepreneur’s journey. One is plagued by endless self-doubt on the path to the realization of one’s dreams. Difficulties arise, tremendous challenges loom large before us, but we have to plod on, knowing that success is just around the corner. Giving up is not an option for those of us who put everything at risk to pursue our hearts’ callings.
If you had your time again, what would you do differently?
I would have deliberated more on various business
decisions. As an entrepreneur, I was raring to go and did not completely think
things out till the very end. Many decisions were taken not fully understanding
the long-term consequences. If I had another chance, I would have been more
meticulous in my planning; I would have made a greater effort to learn more
things about the business environment, government regulations, tax
implications, and labor laws, and, most importantly,
I would be less trusting of people who overpromise and underdeliver.
How do you unwind?
I meditate for twenty minutes in the morning before I
begin my day and twenty minutes in the evening as the day comes to an end. This
time spent with myself is nonnegotiable and helps me handle stress efficiently,
and I have learned to be equanimous at all times regardless of the situation I
find myself in. I also love to read.
The Power of Positive Thinking by Norman
Vincent Peale is a must-read for everyone. When it was first published, both
psychologists and theologians attacked this book as heretical and accused
author Norman Vincent Peale of being a crank. Today, science has verified the
book’s basic concept—that being optimistic makes you healthier and happier and
thus more likely to succeed.
For me, the book served as a harbinger of hope. We all
need to understand the utter frailty of our lives and how precious each moment
is, given the uncertainty of life. This is especially true for all of us who
are active in theirour pursuit
of business and forget to take a moment to acknowledge the sheer beauty of a
regular day spent doing nothing.
Any tips for restaurant entrepreneurs?
It’s been a wild ride, and I’ve learned a lot since I
first started. These are the best three business tips I’ve discovered along the
way:
1. Set yourself apart: Although it’s tempting to offer everything you can possibly cook, it’s wise to specialize in one area. If people want variety, they will go to a generic restaurant such as Applebee’s or Outback Steakhouse, where they can get everything from spicy oriental chicken to a porterhouse steak. Be good at one thing and stick to it. Think about the most famous restaurants where you live. They’re often packed to the gills on weekend nights. Going out to eat is an experience, and you need to sell your restaurant as such. You don’t see lines stretching around the block for Olive Garden. What you do see lines for is “Joe’s Steakhouse Lounge”—a restaurant that may specialize in seafood.
2. Service, service, service: Speaking of customer complaints, most unpleasant experiences related to restaurants stem not from undercooked food or cheap wine, but customer service. There are several ways to ensure a quality customer experience. Hire a good waitstaff. Do background checks, ask for references, and have potential hires sit down with another member of your staff (the more perspectives, the better). Thoroughly vetting your staff ensures that you won’t be hiring any rotten eggs. You get what (who) you pay for—this old adage applies to restaurants as well. What do you expect if you’re paying your staff four dollars an hour? Know your demographic. If you’re opening a sports-themed restaurant, it may be wise to hire more women as waiters, considering that most of your clientele will be men. Likewise, if you’re opening a quirky organic breakfast place, you may want to aim for a more eclectic waitstaff.
3. Target the right demographic: Understanding where the wallets are is important if you want to last in the restaurant business. If you’re catering toward a lower-income demographic, then you want your marketing to reflect that. In most cases, though, you want to target consumers with the most money to spend. This way, you can spend more on making your restaurant great and offering the best foods and service. If you’re going after an older crowd, you must realize that that’s a well that will eventually run dry. Young up-and-comers are the holy grail of demographics because this crowd will form eating habits that they’ll carry over to their social circles and family. That’s why understanding modern marketing principles is necessary to capture this demographic. Young, affluent consumers are extremely savvy, thanks to modern technologies such as smartphones, iPads, and other connected devices.